2 Things For Which The 14-Hour Trip is Well Worth It...

When people say to me: "Bob, how was Buenos Aires? Did you have a good conference (yes)? Did you get work done (yes!)? And then ask, "Would you go back?", here is what I will say:

Of course!! Not only is it a "starts with 'B' City"and thus inherently cool -- Berlin and Beirut, here I come -- and delightfully cool in July... but...

there are two MORE things that will ALSO compel me to make that 14 hour journey...

#1. GOD'S OWN EMPANADA

La empanada de dios [not it's official name]

I already raved about this on another posting but since we went back to eat more of them, I snapped a picture before it was gone. Fried goodness... yet not icky inside. Everything contained within is primo quality and just moist enough... which raises the question: How does it hold together?

How to acquire said piece of manna: Go to Gran Parrilla del Plata

#2: GANCIA AMERICANO APERITIF OR WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE??

Happiness. On the rocks with a bit of soda. Bye-bye bottle...

I had seen this in various liquor stores about town but the bottle itself did not look altogether convincing (the box packaging is wicked though, what with the bold Italian font). However, when we stopped for an early lunch at La Perla in La Boca, I decided to take a shot. There is just something about this mix of botanicals and grape that makes me very, very happy. It's not super strong (14% or so) it's just good. I brought one bottle back with me but now the question becomes where to find it in Ontario...

How to acquire said bottle of joy: Go somewhere enlightened where they sell it. Buy me some, too!

La Recoleta Cemetery

Cemetery Skyline

Main Street...

Evita's Tomb

IGTC Endorses... El Refuerzo Bar Almacen!

Ok, this place just calls you... Especially if you speak vermouth, like I do. Wandering around San Telmo, if you turn up Chacabuco to see the Catalan Casal (as one does, naturally), you will find yourself being drawn to this perfect little place. When you open the door, the blinking green X-mas lights behind the bar flash "Sit down. Drink vermouth" in Morse code. Ya está.

Knowledgeable staff and friendly patrons. Good booze either straight up, with soda, or in cocktails. ¿Qué más quieres?

Have: the Gancia vermouth on the rocks

Worth the trip because...: Just look at the place! It's like the perfect little neighbourhood spot. Go. Ya.

San Telmo, Buenos Aires (with Catalan Casal)

San Telmo Church

Nope, not the Born, San Telmo...

History panels prominently displayed in the neighbourhood

How does one get zoning for this?

Algunos Artistas @ Proa

Art, views and a book from Proa in Buenos Aires...

You hit a button and this thing would flap and squawk... rather unnerving...

Now THIS is a title for a book!                                                 

La Boca, Buenos Aires

La Boca is located in the SE part of Buenos Aires at the mouth of the Riachuelo. It's colourful, touristy in parts and tougher in others. The home of Club Atlético Boca Juniors, the stadium, the Bombonera looms. Full of cobbled streets and brightly-painted buildings (and hawkers), the Caminito area is a great place to take pictures. We had a pretty good meal at La Perla smack-dab in the middle of it (although that meal is best remembered for my having discovered Gancia, an Italian white vermouth that is sweet yet bitter... more on that later!).

There is a very cool art centre/museum called Proa in La Boca, as well, and it is very nicely integrated into the industrial setting.

Derelict façade

Caminito

Let's just not go there... 

Maradona

I just love these old tracks with roads and buildings flush up to them

Great colours in La Boca

Electricy meters that look like mailboxes

El

Street BBQ

Mix of textures, colours and materials, La Boca

Apparently, there's some rivalry between La Boca and San Telmo...

Now showing at Proa: "Some Artists"

Super tasty Gancia (with lemon, ice and a bit of soda from a siphon) at La Perla

How La Perla used to look

Naval ephemera at La Perla

Interior at La Perla

Someone loves these trees enough to knit for them...