20 April 2009

Dinner in Providence



Was down in Providence for the last few days visiting Fran and Ali and meeting Kiko, who is to-tal-mente encantador. I also gave a talk at Brown on Friday and the fact that it went swimmingly put me in an awesome mood for the entire week-end. Now, when Fran and I hang out, there is always serious food and drink involved and this time was no different. I primed the pump with some Cuvee Catherine Brut and a late harvest vidal from Duty-Free and then we made sure to stock up even further with various trips to Providence's bottle stores (including one that is a bizarre hybrid of a pharmacy and a wine shop). In the end, the provisions included bottles of Bollinger and Taittinger, a bloody fantastic oaked rose from Prado del Rey and, once Rosi arrived from Philly, a trio of the extremely tasty Evolution white and some pear brandy, among other things.

The central meal for the gathering was Saturday evening's extravaganza to which Enric and his girlfriend along with some other friends of Fran and Ali's had also been invited. Fran, Rosi and I had gone to the market to get the lamb earlier in the day and then had a great time preparing things as we munched and sipped our way through the afternoon. The menu included: steamed mussels with a red pepper and smoked bacon sauce, papardelle with Rosi's great bolognese of veal and pork, then the lamb slow-cooked for 7 hours while sealed in the creuset with a mix of flour and water... To say that it all turned out wonderfully would be an understatement...



















01 April 2009

The Fun Part...



Today was pretty awesome; I dropped by the U of T Press offices to talk to their Publicist about the mechanics of book launches, getting copies sent places, fliers made, etc.

Given that I had the original idea for Jazz Age Barcelona around 9 or 10 years ago, you'll have to indulge me as I indulge myself... : )

Publication date: 20 of August or thereabouts AND after some great lobbying by the editor, it will be appearing in paperback and as part of the General Interest list (which means bookstore distribution, etc). Yes, there will be cava!

Toronto launch details to follow (David the tailor has graciously offered up his shop for a party and his vitrine for a display coordinated with his sweet merchandise...).

Yay!

Annals of Crime...


Toronto street.

So being back in Toronto has been great... seeing people, rediscovering old haunts, and so on and so on...

One of the things I had forgotten about this city, though, is the really high ratio of "characters" on the TTC during off-peak hours (when I am usually riding, given my, um, flexible schedule...).

A favourite from a couple of years ago was the guy sitting in the aquarium at the back of the streetcar, arms and legs spread while he barked something to this effect into his cell phone:

"I want my f**king money, you f**k! My money! I want my f**king money... I don't care if you have to go into a magical f**king world to get it, if I don't get my money by noon, you're DEAD! F**k! You f**k"

A real charmer...

So the other day I was on the streetcar minding my own business when sketchy dude gets on, all shakes and twitches, and starts talking on his cell phone really loud at the back of the car. Nothing out of the ordinary so far, except then, then, it becomes clear that he is probably planning a robbery. "Yeah, man, c'mon, I need you for like an hour... Yeah, the place is empty... I'll give you your cash right after... yeah, I'm on the streetcar now... yeah, then I'll get in the car and pick you up... yeah, yeah, c'mon man, yeah, Etobicoke..."

Then it was my stop. If my sense of adventure hadn't been at a low ebb (see last 7 months of blog entries for reasons why), I may have followed him for kicks and watched him get caught...

Ah, Toronto, how I've missed you...

31 March 2009

Bundi... It's Bundi-liscious


Elephant Gate, Bundi Palace

Ok, so we got to see a lot of India in 5 weeks.

But the friendliest, happiest place we visited has to have been the small Rajasthan town of Bundi.

This place is pure gold. No touts, helpful locals who really just want to hang out and shoot the shit, a beautiful castle complex that makes you feel like you're in an Indiana Jones movie (you even have to carry a monkey stick to keep the critters at bay!) and some fine, fine food make this town a must-see for people heading to this part of the country.

(Plus, I got to see more cows eating garbage! I'm not kidding when I say that I love that!)


Monkeys doing monkey things in Bundi


Copper and bikes.


Bundi Palace complex.


Bundi Palace


Cows doing cow things in Bundi.

At Long Last...Udaipur

After dropping off Denise in New Delhi, Helene and I took a Kingfisher flight down to Udaipur, a wonderful town in Rajasthan. The same fog that had turned a 12 hour train trip between Varanasi and the capital into a 22 hour long one decided to spare us this time, though, and the trip went without a hitch.

We spent 3 days here and managed to get ourselves some more bespoke clothing (myself, a nice super 120s suit and Helene a funky Fall jacket). The touts eventually got on our nerves--as they cannot help but do when you're based one place and they see you walking by ALL THE TIME--but any tension accumulated on this account was blissfully relieved by our next destination, Bundi....



Udaipur is famous for having it's island palace feature in Octopussy...


With a name like this...


Puppet shop and view of Udaipur street.


Funky puppets.


Beautiful handmade books.


Little sitting area in our hotel room.

18 January 2009

Barcelona!

Back in the Catalan capital after a couple of nice days in Amsterdam that were only marred by the fact that after 3 months of illness-free travelling through Africa and India, I got sick on the day we left Delhi... Damn you Delhi Belly!

More on the last stages of the trip (Udaipur, Bundi) soon!

09 January 2009

Some Varanasi, Some Delhi



So the trip to Delhi from Varanasi was quite the odyssey... First, our train to Agra was cancelled outright on account of heavy fog (they take trains out of commission to lighten traffic for the important routes, I guess) and then we got ye olde rigamarole trying to buy tickets for any train that evening that was heading to the capital. Helene braved the crush at the ticket wicket a couple of times (women are allowed to bud here) but in the end, it was a mixture of persistence, sweet-talking a Tourist Office dude, using Denise's grey hair to our advantage and, yes, bribing the train conductor, that got us on a train about to leave... and in 2nd AC class even! So we had very comfy digs, which was good because instead of taking 12 hours, the journey stretched out to 21... oof!

So no Taj Mahal. Oh well.

Delhi, though, is great! And so clean and orderly! People look at us funny when we say this but, hey, compared to Calcutta, Delhi is Geneva on a Sunday.

The guest house we stayed in (and to which we will hopefully return next week before our flight back to Amsterdam) is very nice and homey. Thanks to Monica for the recommendation!

We had a very nice time traipsing around the capital in a cab that we had rented for the day. Here is some of the photographic evidence of what we saw (after a few extra Varanasi pics).


Colours on the Ganges


Near the burning ghat.


Folding on the banks.


Out on the boat.


PG detail of Nepali Temple.


X-Rated detail of Nepali Temple.


Humayun's Tomb


Inside the tomb.


Nice lattice work at tomb.


Arcade at Red Fort.


Detail at Red Fort.


Sepia Red Fort


Rickshaw view of Old Delhi